liguria

Pietro in the world

Genoa Imperia La Spezia Savona

A strip of land squeezed between mountains, a watershed between the Alps and the Apennines, and the sea with splendid but somewhat too crowded beaches. A territory shaped like an arc, which I have traveled dozens of times, with the superb Genoa at its center; to the west the Riviera delle Palme and the Riviera dei Fiori, to the east the Golfo Paradiso, the Gulf of Tigullio, the Gulf of Poets, and the wonderful Cinque Terre. I have often found myself wandering among the valleys inland; there are many protected natural areas such as the Antola Park, Beigua Park. And then the Toirano Caves, the Archaeological Area of Balzi Rossi. People who have hospitality in their blood; once, on a Vespa on the Turchino Pass, I asked an elderly man for directions and he even took out his dentures to help me better understand the way. The cuisine with Linguine with basil pesto, Pansoti with walnut sauce, Fish Lasagnette, Genoese Focaccia—the best in Italy—Chickpea Farinata, worth mentioning the extra virgin olive oil, among the best in the world, and to finish with desserts, Amaretti with Sassello almonds. Among the wines, my favorite is Pigato, a still white wine from the hills of western Liguria.

Metropolitan City of Genoa

Area: 1834.01 km² Population: 817,260 Municipalities: 67

Genoa: the Lantern at sunset

travel stories...

Sestri Levante

Castello della Pietra

Genoa

A seaside town I am particularly fond of is Sestri Levante. I have always found parking easily in the streets that populate the hill. From there it is easy to go down towards the center, formed by a strip of land between the Bay of Fables and the Bay of Silence. The first time, it was at the Bay of Fables, with a wide beach and little restaurants where I enjoyed an excellent mixed fried fish. Then the next time it was the turn of the Bay of Silence with a small free beach where I set up my umbrella; it was definitely crowded and the sea at that moment was not very clean. I went into the water to admire from the best spot the feature that makes this place unique: the beautiful houses with pastel-colored facades that frame the beach. Further out the water is clearer and a few small jellyfish swim near me. I return to the sand; the sun occasionally hides behind the clouds to remind me that it's time for the swimsuit to give way to the bermuda shorts. After a walk among the shops that enliven the center and the usual supply of focaccia to take home, I leave the isthmus that separates me from the Island and, having reached the car, I say goodbye to this dreamlike place.

Exploring the Val Borbera, I ventured towards Liguria; skirting a canyon where the stream of the same name flows, I found a picnic area. Here I had a quick packed lunch, then continued my journey beyond the Ligurian border; more precisely, to the municipality of Vobbia. Along the ancient Via del Sale, which winds tortuously through the valley, you suddenly catch a glimpse, emerging from the dense forest, of a fortified structure perched on the mountain; it is the bold and majestic Castello della Pietra. You have to leave your car in a lay-by along the road, then continue on foot up a steep path with evocative steps and a wooden railing. A pause now and then to catch your breath, and finally a castle, mysteriously balanced on a rocky spur, appears before my eyes. A narrow iron staircase leads to the entrance, and you immediately notice panels explaining, century after century, the history of the building and its owners. The rooms are bare of furnishings, only a fake soldier for a souvenir photo. Few objects inside, but looking at the valley you get a sense of the castle's strategic location; from up here you overlook the entire Parco dell’Antola.

I have been to Genoa several times, including a visit to Euroflora 2001, an international floriculture event that that year was titled "All the Flowers of the World" and was held in the pavilions of the Fair. On a more recent trip, I went by train. Starting from Porta Principe station, I gently descended towards the sea, passing through the characteristic Carrugi with shops of all kinds: food, clothing, souvenirs, and improvised stalls. I continued to the Basilica of San Lorenzo, a church with a Gothic façade of white and black stripes, very beautiful with a central rose window and two lions at the sides of the entrance staircase. Inside, in a particularly cool environment, admiring the vault decorated with magnificent frescoes, I found shelter for a few minutes from the summer heat. Regaining my strength, I strolled through the center admiring the Ducal Palace and the adjacent Piazza De Ferrari with its characteristic fountain. Then there was just enough time to go down to the Old Port and, as the sun set, take a photo of the Lanterna, the symbol of Genoa. Night had already fallen when, on the way back to the station, I saw the Bigo, a spectacular panoramic elevator, illuminated. Belin…